Welcome to paradise! You’ve made it to the beach and you are excited to surf…but where to start? Keep reading to learn more about where and when to surf, basic water safety, and surf etiquette to make sure you have a great session in the water.
COSTA RICA SURF TRIP - CHOOSING YOUR SURF SPOT
Beginner surfers should look for beach breaks with sandy ocean floors to help ensure safety and avoid injuries in case of wipeouts in the whitewater. The ocean tides are always changing which affects the waves and layout of each beach. If you are at an unfamiliar surf beach, check with a local surf instructor or lifeguards to understand the ocean tides! We recommend surfing from mid to low tide, low tide, or even low to mid tide because the water level drops allowing you to walk inside the break. This makes for a nice friendly surfing environment with good foam waves!
Tip: Visit the surf breaks in low tide (especially if you’re new to the area) so you can see the underwater surface and spot hidden rocks, potential hazards and understand the ocean floor.
OCEAN CURRENTS
The ocean is a powerful force stronger than any of us, so it is important to understand basic ocean safety before getting in the water. For now, we will focus on the ocean currents. There are many types of currents but the main ones we need to know are called the Feeder, Sweep, and Rip Current.
FEEDER: An incoming wave to the shore that floods the beach. It can work in layers according to the sets and swell.
SWEEP: A lateral current that goes horizontal/parallel to the beach, initially soft after the feeder, but gains strength the closer it gets to the rip current.
RIP: A current going out to the sea, derived from the sweeps and generally the one that gets people in trouble. It is used in surfing to reach the lineup faster.
Before jumping straight into the ocean, observe the water to understand what these currents look like and how they interact with the ocean.
Tip: Feel the direction of the water movement to recognize what currents you’re in. Save the ocean currents chart for future reference or find it on our Instagram.
SURF ETIQUETTE
In the world of surfing, there are some big do’s and don’ts–just like in any other extreme sport. The ocean is constantly changing so it is important to stay alert and keep your eyes on the ocean. Letting your guard down when surfing can result in getting caught in a large set of waves, ending up in a rocky area, or accidentally injuring yourself or others.
Just like when using a bike, skateboard, or any other vehicle, we are responsible for what happens to us, the board, and other people with our board, so control is important. When we hold t
he board we move with it. A loose surfboard in the water is dangerous as it can hit us or injure others. Every surfer has a radius around them, or their bubble, they have to stay aware of which is the length of the leash plus the surfboard length. This is good to keep in mind for your own safety and so you can identify potentially hazardous surfers to avoid in the water.
Lastly, positioning is critical in surfing. A surfer should never be in front or behind another surfer for both your own safety as well as theirs. If you’re in front of someone and a wave comes, there is a chance of collision and it is most dangerous for the person behind (closer to the shore) as they run the most risk of getting hit by loose boards or a person. So remember to keep your distance from others so you don’t compromise your safety or other’s in the water.
Tip: If you’re surfing in the lineup and a breaking wave is too large, make sure no one is around you and then ditch your board to dive under the wave. It is very important to be aware of your surroundings so that you don’t let your board go when others are close by to be potentially hit.
CONCLUSION
There are many factors that go into creating a good surf session, this just scratches the surface. Location, the tides, ocean swell, and even interactions with other surfers can set the tone for your session so be conscious of where you surf and if you’re not sure, just ask! Keep an eye out for our next blog which will detail how to choose the right board for you and until then, enjoy the surf and pura vida.
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